Sunday, July 31, 2022

Solunar Tables for Bass Fishing

Bass movements and moods (as well as other fish and game) have been related to changes in the Earth-Moon-Sun orientation (and therefore energy) for much of human history.  Even early hunters recognized different animal movements during different Moon phases and adjusted accordingly.

I even have to admit, when I took the time to check, bass feeding activities often seemed to coincide with major or minor solunar periods.

Following is an excerpt from a recent solunar table which was derived based using Moon and Sun phase information (it also links to current Bassmaster page):


Meaning of the data in the columns:

  • Best Days – based on position of Earth-Moon-Sun with a rating of 0-100 where the higher the number, the higher the Sun-Moon influence;
  • Lunar Periods refers to the times the Moon is either overhead or underfoot on a daily basis also with a solar symbol indicating when the tow periods overlap;
  • PrimeTime data based on astrophysical data and research conducted on wildlife/fish movements and activity levels.

Here is a link to the Astro Tables page @ Bassmaster,com for current Solunar info…

Bassmaster Astro Tables

Other options exist for best fishing time info such as the tables provided via InFisherman (<== link) or area specific times provided by US Prime Times (<== link)…

Crankbait Fishing 101 Via Kevin VanDam

After a quick video interview of KVD on the new Strike King crankbait by APbassin’, Kevin VanDam takes his position at a sportsman show demo tank discussing, what else, crankbaits…

KVD provides a fantastic primer on crankbait fishing covering everything from proper rod, line selection,and types of crankbaits to select for different situations (depth range, rattle vs. silent, square bills, etc.) in this 14 minute presentation…

Talk about giving a live, at-the-tank class in Crankbait Fishing 101… Way cool!

Definitely worth taking the time to watch, listen and take a few notes…



Saturday, July 30, 2022

How To Properly Hold A Bass

 Most bass anglers take the extra step and release many of the fish we catch to preserve this finny resource for the future..


But did you realize that you can still cause significant harm to a bass just by how it gets landed and held before release?

Over-extension of the lower jaw can result in damage to the jaw bone and permanent injury to the fish…

This frequently happens when the bass is held out horizontally with the only support point being the lower jaw grip…

One of my Twitter followers and avid bass fisherman, Dan Pittman was kind enough to “Tweet” an image detailing perils of improper fish handling as shown below…


 If using the vertical hold be careful not to over-extend the lower jaw to preserve your catch for the future.

If using a horizontal hold, again don’t “jack the jaw” wide open and hold the fish about 3/4 of the way to it’s tail supporting the weight.

In all cases, minimize the contact with the bass and get it back into the water as quickly as possible… 

Tuesday, July 26, 2022

Best Lures for Fishing Ponds

 Most of us fisher-people want an idea about the best lures when fishing a new pond. That’s definitely the case for nearly everyone when fishing the numerous kettle ponds across America's north country.

One problem springs to mind, however…

If you ask 10 different anglers what their favorite baits are when fishing these ponds, you’re likely to get 12 different answers… ðŸ˜‰

None-the-less compiling a list of the best lures to consider before your next pond fishing venture for a little freshwater fishing action is definitely worth the effort …

Best Bass Lures for Kettle Ponds

  • Minnow baits and jerkbaits like the Rapala balsa minnows or X-raps;
  • Single & double tailed grubs fished on different types of jigheads (colors are definitely a personal preference thing but you are good to go as long as it has green in it ðŸ˜‰ );
  • Assorted crankbaits (perch and crawdad patterns) covering shallow to deep water;
  • Senkos-type sinking worm baits (again color is personal preference);
  • Spinnerbaits where the all around favorite is 3/8 oz in perch/alewife patterns;
  • Drop-shot rigs with a variety of baits (grubs, finesse worms, etc.) and colors (as long as it has green in it!); and
  • 1/8 to 1/2 oz. bass jigs in black, black/blue or crawdad colors.

Best "Other Fish" Lures for Kettle Ponds

  • Weighted in-line spinners such as Mepps, Panther Martin and Vibrax spinners;
  • Spoons in chrome, gold, copper with or without fluorescent highlights;
  • Smaller versions of minnow baits (Rapala, Rebel, Yozuri Pin Minnows);
  • Spinner and bait (usually worms) rigs;
  • Small jigs and grubs (pan-fish sizes);
  • Berkley Power Baits; and
  • A variety of flies either for fly fishing or by using a bubble-type float for spinning.

Be sure to check your tackle box and be sure you have at least a few of these baits in your collection.

Doing so will definitely help increase your fishing success when you venture anywhere that has kettle ponds!

Monday, July 25, 2022

When Weedbeds + Baitfish = Ambushing Bass

 This is a little bass fishing secret I employ in ponds and reservoirs with populations of schooling baitfish like shad (Southeastern & Western U.S.) or alewives (Eastern U.S.).

As either spring ramps up and summer starts to wind-down, schooling baitfish start to congregate in the main lake area and bass often do as well. The reason the bass are there? …


The presence of all that food…

Not to mention, to take advantage of ambush situations where they can corral baitfish quickly and grab a fast meal (the bass’ version of a McD’s drive-through I guess!).

I’ve had some great days on western reservoirs catching unsuspecting bass as they thrashed at shad funneled toward the surface over weeds or tree-tops. Some of my more memorable days, however, were catching bass herding alewives on a number of fertile, vegetated lakes across the northern U.S.

The diagram below depicts a common situation where this situation often occurs.


As the baitfish schools cruise the water searching out plankton, they would frequently encounter blooms in waters around and over submerged weedbeds like coontail and pondweed.

Though the weedbeds may appear dense and impenetrable, a fairly open system exists within the internal structure creating perfect hiding places for bass to wait in ambush.

When the school of alewives swims around and over the weedbeds, the bass then start to herd the baitfish against the surface.  Take the time to position yourself in the area of the weedbeds (you can often predict which beds will be active by watching the migrating schools)…

Next, have your rods rigged with jig & worms, tubes, lipless & shallow running crankbaits, small topwater baits and small spinnerbaits making casts into and around the thrashing school…

The action can be fast and furious in spurts of a few minutes to an hour or more of pure bass-catching excitement!.

Sunday, July 24, 2022

Vary Your Spinnerbait Retrieve for More Bass

 Thinking back to the days when I saw my first spinnerbait, I remember a lure with blades just like an in-line spinner but configured in a way to make it weedless.


My first reaction?

What an odd looking contraption…

I definitely had my doubts it would catch anything much less bass. After a little more research, I finally broke down, bought a couple and even caught a few bass on one my first time trying it. I was hooked for life ðŸ™‚

Initially I saw the spinnerbait as a lure that could be fished like an in-line spinner with a basic cast and retrieve approach. Little did I realize how much more versatile any spinner could be when something changing as small as the retrieve style.

Over the years I learned a number of specialized retrieves for spinnerbaits making them even more effective than they were when I first starting using them.

One thing to remember when fishing a spinnerbait, this type of lure is the reaction bait designed to trigger bass into striking rather than mimicking actual forage. Imparting erratic motions during the retrieve is often just what the doctor ordered helping trigger those reaction strikes on a consistent basis!

An Introduction to Several Specialized Spinnerbait Retrieves

Chuck & Wind

The first time most of us heard the term “chuck and wind” was probably from watching bass fishing celebrity Jimmy Houston on TV. Jimmy made this spinnerbait retrieve famous when using it while fishing and winning several national tournaments decades ago.

Though chuck and wind sounds like a slow motion cast and reel approach, the retrieve is fast enough to keep the bait in sight just below the surface. This allows the angler to see the bait, watch for following fish and cover a lot of water quickly. Most anglers also either twitch the rod during retrieve or tick cover changing the lures movement helping trigger more strikes.

Bump the Stump (Cover)

Though many bass fisherman refer to this next retrieve as “bump the stump”, in reality it should be referred to as bump the cover. This retrieve is used where bass holding cover such as stumps, brush lines, weeds, rocks or docks dominates the area being fished. The cast is made beyond the cover to allow the angler to direct the spinnerbait into as many pieces of cover causing numerous erratic movements therefore triggering reaction bites. The “bump the cover” retrieve is probably one of the most effective retrieves used by bass anglers to trigger reaction strikes.

Waking the Bait

Another spinnerbait retrieve dating back to the early days of professional bass tournaments is called “waking the bait”. Just like the chuck and wind method, the spinnerbait is reeled with a fast retrieve so the blades create a bulge across the water’s surface mimicking escaping forage. Usually the retrieve speed is kept just fast enough to create the wake while not allowing blades do not break the water’s surface. If the retrieve suddenly stops working, try allowing the blade to break the surface which can sometimes help trigger additional strikes. This is another great retrieve to use when searching for bass since it allows the angler to cover a lot of water quickly.

Yo-Yo Vertical Edges

Several times each season all bass anglers encounter types of cover forming vertical edges extending from, at or near the surface all the way to the bottom. When bass are active and cruising along the edge, the any of the retrieves mentioned above may work when casting parallel to the edge. On days when bass are less aggressive, however another retrieve can help entice finicky fish into eating your spinnerbait.

Remember the yo-yos we all played with as kids?

This approach uses the same motion as you impart when using a yo-yo. A long cast is made either parallel with or perpendicular to the vertical cover. Initially the spinnerbait is allowed to flutter to the bottom or desired intermediate depth on a slack line. The bait is then quickly lifted towards the surface using both the rod while picking up line with the reel. As the bait gets close to the surface is then allowed to flutter back down towards the bottom before being lifted again towards the surface in a yo-yo retrieve style. The height of the lift-drop (yo-yo) retrieve can be varied to a specific depth interval depending on how the bass are positioned along the vertical cover.


Slow Rolling

A skillful bass angler, equipped with the right tackle and knowledge can often make negative to neutral fish strike with the right presentation. This is often accomplished by presenting a slow, thumping spinnerbait through cover, right into the strike zone of these sulking bass. The retrieve used to trigger neutral bass into striking is called “slow rolling a spinnerbait”.

This retrieve is started by making long casts across structure being fished letting the bait flutter towards subsurface cover. Once contact is made with the cover, the angler starts a slow, steady retrieve keeping the bait in contact with the cover, twitching occasionally to impart an erratic motion. It sometimes pays to experiment with the retrieve so try either a yo-yo or stop/go variation while slow rolling depending on the mood of the bass.

Another variation of this retrieve is to let the spinnerbait flutter all the way to the bottom. Next the spinnerbait is retrieved using a dragging retrieve by moving the spinnerbait with the rod and reeling in slack as you would with a jig or Texas-rigged worm. This variation is sometimes called “dead dragging a spinnerbait”.

There are a number of different retrieves to be employed helping the bass angler to tailor his or her presentation to the mood of the bass as well as the conditions being fished. As a matter of fact, never be afraid to use a little of your own imagination in developing unique retrieves. 

Ultimately, these variations will put even more weapons into your spinnerbait fishing arsenal.

Saturday, July 23, 2022

Rock Piles – Bass Magnets for Any Season

 Bass fishing and rock piles 

I don’t know about you but I have a love-hate relationship with fishing rock piles and trying to entice bass from their hardened haven.


Don’t get me wrong, I have caught numerous largemouth, smallmouth and even spotted bass from those heaps of stony rubble.  Even so, all those nooks and crannies have wreaked havoc with my tackle eating a variety of baits and constantly fraying line…

Rock Piles = Magnetic Bass Attractors

None the less, if I am fishing a body of water where rock piles are present, I will make a concerted effort to seek out as many as possible. I will go to even greater lengths to locate and fish the lesser known structures since the fishing pressure is lower and resident bass are usually much more cooperative.

Another great thing about rock piles … they can be bass magnets in winter or summer; spring or fall depending on its location and water depth.  It’s just a matter of considering the seasonal conditions and structural nature of different rock piles in the lake and focusing on those most likely to be productive during that season.

Rock Pile Size and Forage Considerations

Other factors influencing your success when fishing rock piles for bass include the size of the structure since some are only a few tens of feet wide where others might be several hundred feet in length.  The larger the rock pile, the harder it is to locate the area being used by most of the bass …

Identifying the types of forage bass are feeding on when using a particular rock pile is also an important consideration since it impacts lure selection.  Although many people would assume crayfish would be the key forage, many times the bass are feeding on some sort of baitfish.

Five Helpful Tips for Fishing Rock Piles …

So here are five tips to help you fish your favorite rock piles more effectively during your next trip to your favorite bass lake …

  • Actions to help locate new, less pressured rock piles;
    • Although you can start of doing some homework with a lake map before you even hit the water, any rock piles labeled on the map will likely be known (and fished) by everyone.  Take extra time to locate other resources (aerial images indicating possible targets) before hitting water.  Once on the water, scan the shoreline for indications of rockier areas extending to water; they may indicate similar areas off shore.  Make effort to survey areas with sudden bottom rises with sonar zigzagging to define extent then check it our with bottom bouncing lures.
  • Focus on the secondary structures on the rock pile;
    • Once rock pile is located, take time to map out the structure and identify the “structures on the structure” (smaller piles, wood accumulation, etc.) since these are the most likely sections to hold numbers of fish.
  • Make an effort to keep baits in contact with rocks;
    • Don’t just rely on swimming baits (less change of losing lures), use bottom contact lures as well since the action and sound of the lure against the rocks can be a trigger mechanism.
  • Alternate between horizontal and vertical presentations; &
    • Most people work the rock piles using a horizontal cast and retrieve approach.  Quietly drifting over the pile and using a vertical presentation (vertical jigging or drop shotting) may provide the bass with a different bait presentation again helping trigger strikes.
  • Search out isolated rock piles.

In many fishing situations throughout the year, bass, especially quality bass relate to isolated structure more readily than areas with numerous structural elements throughout.  The same applies for rock piles with a possible additional benefit … if the rock pile is isolated and not on the public lake map, it may be one of the less known structures and a true honey hole!



Thursday, July 21, 2022

Smallmouth Bass On Deep Ledges

We all make interpretations on how bass relate to cover but when you actually see it for yourself, it’s pretty amazing!


In the following video, the folks at Hook n’ Look Splash (the Stricker Family) show how fall smallmouth bass relate to a deep water ledge (25′ at shallow lip dropping to 40+’ at bottom) using a combo of underwater videography and advanced sonar technology…


Though they mentioned having already caught fish on the ledge lip, I’m not sure how they didn’t get right back to it after seeing that school of smallies!

Ten Tips To Become a Better Bank Angler

Whether you are a dedicated bank angler or a boat owner that hits the bank a few times a season, there are a number of things you can do to up your bank fishing success.

Here are ten tips to help you become a better bank angler:

1) Take advantage of every opportunity to hit the bank even if it’s only for 30 minutes or so. The more you go, the more experience you gain and better angler you’ll become.

2) Low light conditions such as around dawn, dusk or when it’s cloudy are typically best since bass tend to be shallower and more active.

3) Find ponds, lakes or streams with relatively deeper water and abundant cover within easy casting distance of the bank.

4) Keep your tackle selection simple and straight forward since you’ll be walking the bank and covering water. Two to three rod & reel combos for different techniques plus a
small tackle box with baits tailored to the conditions you’re fishing works best.

5) Remember, a stealthy approach is always best since shallow bass are often sensitive to strange sounds, different shadows and vibrations originating from the bank.

6) Learn the types and approximate location of cover present in your bank fishing waters, especially submerged cover not easily located with the naked eye.

7) Though most bank fishermen often cast out towards deeper water, shallow bass are often just off the bank and holding on shoreline cover. Always fan cast each spot
starting with casts parallel to the bank working around through deeper water and ending paralleling the bank in the opposite direction from where you started casting.

8) When fishing a spot, use a variety of baits that cover the water column (topwaters for the surface, crankbaits, spinnerbaits, chatterbaits for mid-depths then
worms, jigs, grubs to probe the bottom cover). Always let the fish tell you what baits they want and how the want it presented.

9) Check the wind speed and direction before you head out and use that information to help select the best bank area for current weather conditions.

10) Keep a fishing journal of all your trips noting pertinent conditions and fish catches for future reference.

Personally more than half my fishing trips each season are from the bank and I employ each of these tips as appropriate each time I am fishing from the bank.

Using these tips has helped me learn the ins and outs of each bank fishing location and definitely helped increase my bank fishing success rate!

Wednesday, July 20, 2022

The Fishin’ Glossary

Action – Measure of rod performance that describes the elapsed time between flexion and return to straight configuration; ranges from slow to fast, with slow being the most amount of flexion; also refers to the strength of the rod (light, meduim and heavy) with light being a limber rod and heavy a stout rod; also refers to gear of reels.

Active Fish – Bass that are feeding heavily and striking aggressively.


Adaptation – Biological adjustment that increases fitness.

Algae – Simple plant organisms.

Alkalinity – Measure of the amount of acid neutralizing bases.

Alley – An opening between patches of emergent weeds; also the parallel space separating emergent weeds and the shoreline.

Amp – Measure of electrical current.

Amp Hour – Storage capacity measurement of a deep-cycle batter obtained by multiplying the current flow in amps by the hours that it’s produced.

Angler – Person using pole or rod and reel to catch fish.

Anti-reverse – System that prevents reels from spinning in reverse.

Backlash – Tangle of line on a baitcasting reel due to spool overrun.

Backwater – Shallow area off a river.

Bag Limit – Restriction on the number of fish that an angler may harvest in a day.

Monday, July 18, 2022

Tying the Jimmy Houston Knot

 Many bass anglers tout the double pitzen a.k.a. the Jimmy Houston knot as the strongest knot in use today.

A number of pro anglers (including Jimmy & Shaw Grigsby) have created demo videos showing how to tie the knot but this version is one of the clearest I have found.

Enjoy!



Saturday, July 16, 2022

Carolina Rig Basics for Deep Water Bass

 Many bass anglers focus their fishing attention in relatively shallow water depths (<10 feet) for one of two basic reasons:

1)      the waters they fish are primarily that shallow or

2)      they are not comfortable with fishing deep water.


Though the second reason may involve a lack of confidence in finding bass holding structures in deep water, often times it relates to a lack of skills in deepwater presentations techniques.

Probably the most basic of deep water bass fishing methods involves using a simple system called the “Carolina Rig”.  The key components of the traditional “Carolina Rig” include:

  • A 7+ foot long MH to H casting rod and reel combo spooled with 20 lb. test main line (in today’s bass fishing world, super-braids reign supreme in this role);
  • A fairly heavy (> ½ oz.) sinker (lead, brass or tungsten), glass beads, barrel swivel and appropriate hook (depends on lure selection);
  • A two to five foot long leader (usually fluorocarbon) of varying line test depending on water and cover conditions;
  • Lure (usually plastic baits with lizards and worms being used on the traditional rig).

After preparing the rod, reel and rig set-up, the next possible hurdle occurs when trying to cast the rig since there is a fairly long leader between the sinker and lure.  

To help solve both these isses, Ron Colby (Yamamoto Custom Bait Pro Staffer) demonstrates the steps in rigging, casting and the basic retrieve used with the “Carolina Rig” in the following video:


The beauty of the “Carolina Rig” is once you learn the basics of rigging and the presentation, it provides a great tool any bass angler can use when faced with a deep water bass fishing situation …

Tight lines and full livewells!

Friday, July 15, 2022

Fishing Deep Crankbaits for Bass

Crankbaits are versatile bass lures available in a wide range of sizes, styles and color patterns allowing the bass angler to use them throughout the seasons.

Deep diving crankbaits are particularly effective for fishing offshore structures, where bass reside during the winter and summer months.


Selecting the right crankbait style and depth range, such as the Rapala DT20, in a color pattern matching dominant forage results in great bass “catching” opportunities as demonstrated in the following video …


One other thing to keep in mind is the approach the Lindner brothers use in the video before even starting to fish. Note how they take the time to carefully map out the rock pile structure with sonar and GPS before actually fishing for the largemouth bass present on the spine of the pile.

It’s all part of turning the bass fishing trip into a bass catching adventure!

Tight lines & full livewells …

Locational Patterns

 Locational Patterns

By Ron Kurucz

Springtime Locational Patterns:

Pre-Spawn is 50 to 59 degrees F. Spawn is 60 to 66 degrees F. Post-Spawn is 67 to 72 degrees F.

Pre-Spawn: Largemouth bass follow a seasonal pattern typical of largemouth behavior on most reservoirs. In the spring, fish begin to move from the creek channels in the main reservoir to the secondary channels and into the coves and creek arms. This movement begins when the water temperatures move into the high 40’s and the low 50’s. Initially, location will focus on the main creek mouths, but as water temperature reaches the upper 50’s the bass will move up the secondary channels toward their spawning grounds. Pre-spawn bass are school fish, and during the early pre-spawn these schools will be tightly packed. The first stages of the pre-spawn migration occur in 20 to 30 feet of water; at the end of this period the fish will be in the 10 to 15 foot depths. As the fish move to the actual spawning grounds, not all schools will follow the same migration pattern. One school may move up a secondary channel until it reaches a timbered point. Here the fish may swing away from the creek channel and follow the edge of the timberline toward the spawning flats.


Another school may follow a creek channel until it intersects with a sunken roadbed. It may then follow the roadbed toward the shallows. How shallow the fish will move depends on weather conditions and water clarity. On a warm overcast day a school may move up on the flats and begin to scatter in 10 to 15 feet of water. But the passing of a cold front and plummeting water temperature could quickly drive these fish back down into secondary channels and 20 to 30 foot depths. Because of erratic weather and water conditions, the early spring can frustrate anglers, with fish “here today and gone tomorrow.” During most of the pre-spawn, fish will hold close to cover. This means that lure presentation has to be “right on the money.” With water temperatures in the 50’s, a bass’s metabolic rate is slow and it will seldom chase a lure more than a few feet. The reason many anglers fail to catch bass during this period is they ignore the overall activity level of the fish and use the same speed of retrieve as during the bulk of the summer. For slow moving pre-spawn bass, a slow dropping jig n pig combination or a single bladed spinnerbait is the best choice. And remember, during pre-spawn, stick to water in the 10 to 30 foot range. Many anglers make the mistake of fishing too shallow and miss out on the fine action of this period altogether.

Spawn: As water temperatures move into the low 60’s, schools of bass will begin to scatter and move into the shallows. The males will move into three to five feet of water and begin building their nests, while the females usually hold in the eight to ten foot range awaiting a courting male. Nesting takes place on a mud or mud/gravel bottom, and the nest is invariably located up against some type of cover. The bass instinctively seek some type of object in order to cut down on the amount of territory they have to defend from marauding bluegills and crappies. If a bass can build its nest against a stump or under a log, it can face out toward these pesky predators and will not have to worry about attacks from behind. While actual spawning may take place over a period of three to four weeks, the spawning peak will occur when the water temperature is about 64 degrees F, and if this temperature coincides with a full moon we can look forward to a “bumper crop” of baby bass. During the spawn, water clarity can vary quite a bit, depending on whether it is a dry or wet spring. Fishing tackle can vary between spinning and baitcasting, and the line size can vary between six and twelve lb. test, depending on water clarity.

Post-Spawn: After the spawning rites are complete, bass are very difficult to catch for three to six days. It seems that they use this time to clean out their systems and to recuperate from the rigors of mating. At this time bass move into a little deeper water and once again hold close to cover. But when this resting period is over, the mood changes dramatically from one of lethargy to aggressive feeding. At this time the bass form into small schools of eight to ten fish. You can expect to find these schools in eight to fifteen feet of water with long points, humps, ditches leading to secondary channels, and roadbeds the key locations. Fish location during the post-spawn is not easy, because small schools of bass are constantly moving and cover a lot of ground. It takes hard work to locate post-spawn bass, but once you do, you’re in for the time of your life. During the post-spawn, lure selection is the widest of any time of the year. Topwater baits and deep diving crankbaits can both produce fish, depending on bass location and mood. Topwater lures may seem a strange choice because most fish are not located in the shallows, but they feed so aggressively during the post-spawn that a noisy surface plug will actually “call them up” from the 10 to 12 foot depths.

Summertime Locational Patterns:

Summer is 73 to 85 degrees F.

Typically the summer period is characterized by movement of fish out of the creed arms and back to open water. Some of the best locations include sunken islands, secondary creek channels near the main creek channel, roadbeds, and the main creek channel. The best location is where there will be a combination of good structure, for example where a roadbed crosses an old creek channel, or where an isolated sunken island touches the main creek channel. During the summer, patterns of fish location are sometimes difficult to establish and at other times amazingly simple. It is important to remember that, throughout the summer, bass will school by size and that different schools exhibit different migration patterns. It can be tough to stay on moving fish, so once you locate them, make as many casts as you can. When the action slows, try to determine what structure the fish are migrating along and follow it until you reestablish contact. Summertime bass may move slowly or rapidly, depending on the cover available. If the fish are following an old creek channel devoid of timber, they will move quickly. If, on the other hand, the creek channel has lots of timber and brush, the fish will linger as they move up the creek bed. It’s difficult to say how far feeding fish will move, for behavior varies from school to school. But if a school has a definite summertime home, it probably won’t move more than a quarter of a mile from sunrise to midday. And during the cold-water period, the school may move less than 100 yards in a day.

The depth of summertime bass depends on water clarity, light penetration, and water temperature. In the early summer, fish are often found in 15 to 20 feet of water. But even if the temperature gets over 75 degrees F, largemouth will not move as deep as their cousin the spotted bass. It is unusual to find largemouth in over 30 feet of water. Time of day is an important determinant in locating summer bass. Early morning and late evening will find shallow water movements of bass on shallow tapering points and around vegetation such as coontail, moss, pads, and varies grasses. Topwater plugs are a good choice when fishing the shallows. Sunken islands are also a good bet for early morning and late evening fishing and can be worked effectively with a plastic worm or a jig n pig. A classic early morning hotspot is the shallow tapering flat of an old sunken roadbed. As the sun gets high in the sky, the bass will simply move down the roadbed until it intersects a creek channel. Then the fish will meander down the creek, stopping at about the 20 foot level. Transportation routes are the least of a bass’s worries. A variety of lures work during the summer period, but the plastic worm is without a doubt the best choice. Other good choices for the summer are vibrating lures and crankbaits.

Cold Water Locational Patterns:

Fall temperatures are dropping from 85 to 55 degrees F. Winter from 54 to 40 degrees F.

The two cold water periods of fall and winter slowly blend into each other, without any drastic changes in fish attitude. As water temperatures begin to cool, bass form into schools that are much larger and tighter than summertime schools. While a large school of summertime bass may contain 30 or 40 fish, a school of late fall bass may number over 200. A summer school of bass tends to spread out horizontally and is loosely grouped. In contrast, a cold water school is tightly packed, with fish stacking vertically 12 to 15 fish deep. Thus, a large school of bass in the fall will occupy less space than a smaller summertime grouping. Another colds water behavioral pattern than differs from the summer is that fish hold close to cover. All these factors combine to make fish location during the cold water periods more difficult than any other time of the year. Often during late fall you can spend three or four hours patiently working different structure until you finally get your first fish. But once the first fish is located, a limit can be taken on consecutive casts. Of course tightly packed schools of bass do not develop overnight. As the summer ends and the first crisp nights fall cause a slight fog on the water, bass continue to relate to classic structure; they simply begin a slow migration into deeper water. They begin seeking out the deeper roadbeds, the deeper timberlines, and the deeper creek channels.

The general preferences, however, is the channels. When water temperature reaches 50 degrees F., it is not uncommon to find largemouth in 30 to 40 feet of water. The best fall location is where two creeks join on a timbered point. Another classic fall location is where a creek doubles back on itself forming a “saddle” (a sharp U shape). The main difficulty with fishing cold water bass is that it requires patience and a methodical approach. This means fishing an area slowly and thoroughly before moving on. The best approach is to select an area that looks as if it holds a concentration of fish and then work it slowly. Vertical jigging is a popular fall and winter technique. With fish reticent to move more than a foot to inhale a lure, it is a good idea to slowly drop the jig, bounce it in place for a few minutes, and then move only four or five feet and repeat the process. A lure must be presented right in front of a bass’s nose. When fishing in the timber, move from tree to tree making sure to fish all sides of each tree. Relax, and resign yourself to not covering much ground. There is simply no way to fish deep and rapidly. The bass are definitely catchable, but finding them can take plenty of time. Though most of the bass move to deeper water when the water is in the lower 50’s and mid 40’s, there are days when the fish will be two or three feet below the surface. They will not, however, be in the shallow coves, but rather suspended in the tops of sunken timber. A warm sunny day in December or January can pull fish to the surface like a magnet. This is a vertical migration, however, and the bass will quickly drop back into the deep water when weather conditions change.

The key to fishing cold water largemouth is locating steep drop offs or timber near deep water channels. Once a cold water school of fish is located, it will stay in the same vicinity most of the winter. There may be some minor migrations, but the fish will not move the great distances they often do during the summer. If you know and area holds fish, simply work it over slowly. If you are “on fish”, it’s only a matter of making the right presentation and that means selecting from a few proven cold water methods. The standard repertoire of cold water lures include tailspins, twinspins, jig n pig, and jigging spoons. One lure that often works during early the cold water period, and is usually overlooked, is the deep diving crankbait. The reason many anglers fail to use a crankbait during the cold water period is that they have trouble keeping the lure down and at the same time moving it slowly. The fall is one time when it is critical to use plastic bodied or sinking crankbaits. The balsa lures work fine in the summer when bass are aggressive and can chase a lure some distance, but when the water is cold, bass move more slowly and it is impossible to keep a balsa lure deep unless you add a sinker or two. If you try to fish a balsa crankbait without additional weight it will simply bounce to the surface. It is recommended to use a good neutral buoyancy or sinking crankbait that can be cranked down to the proper depth and then slowly crawled across the bottom. Observations by skin divers have proven that cold water bass almost always take a lure as it is dropping. When casting to locations that you think is holding fish, position your boat that the cast is made from deep to shallow water. Then, when you retrieve your jig or spoon it will be working downhill. This allows you to slowly drop the lure down a ridge and into a creek channel, where the bass often hold during the fall and winter. In the summer, simply reverse your position so you are casting from shallow to deep.

Then you can work your lure uphill and over the lip of the creek where summertime bass often hold. Of course under both circumstances line watching is very important. At the slightest sign of movement in your line, set the hook and quickly make a mental note of the depth at which the fish struck. If you get one strike there are probably a hundred more bass down there just waiting to fill your limit. It’s difficult for most anglers to believe that they catch 40 or 50 bass out of one school, but it can happen in the fall and winter so long as water temperature stays above 41 degrees F. and the water is not muddy, cold water fishing can be exceptional. However, once the water temperature drops below 41 degrees F., or if a cold winter rain muddies the water, it’s all over. The combination of cold, turbid water is the death of bass fishing.

Like they say, location is everything.

Article Source: Locational Patterns

Thursday, July 14, 2022

Estimating Bass Weights Using Length & Girth

Have you ever found yourself fishing on a remote body of water and caught a high quality bass but didn’t have a scale to find its weight?

I know I have …

One several occasions during my early days of bass fishing, I would just mentally estimate the weight of the fish for the future stories of battling the behemoth bass.


After all, what are great fishing tales made of anyway ðŸ˜‰

Getting Closer to the Truth About Trophy Bass Catches

Even though there are a number of decent, relatively low-cost digital scales on the market today, there will still be times when you land a quality largemouth or smallmouth and still want a “real” weight estimate.

Tuesday, July 12, 2022

Summertime Bass Fishing on Your Favorite Lake

 Though some bass always remain close to shore, many bass have start to drift off to deeper creek edges, points and holes once the spawn passes.

One thing to always remember, however, deeper fish will move shallower during the evening, night and early morning periods before drifting back in deeper water during the heat of the day …

A few tips to to help enhance bass fishing success during the summer:

    • While the water temps are still in the upper 70s to low 80s, some of the more productive cover is standing timber, weed-beds, rock piles and other cover situated in 8 to 14 feet of water;
    • Fishing along weeds and timber adjacent to the any creek channels or deeper holes can be very productive;
    • Various topwater lures, especially frog imitations fished in and around shallower cover during early morning or late evening hours can produce excellent quality fish;
    • Always keep a “follow-up” bait handy to quickly throw at when shallow fish miss your topwater offering; &
    • Key on large profile plastic baits (like 10″ worms), jig and pig, Carolina rigs, deep-running crankbaits as well as Texas-rigged creature baits when fishing deeper structure and cover during the mid-day period …