Fall arrives with both the air and water temperatures starting to cool. Not only do we get the benefit of more comfortable conditions but so will all fish species in bass reservoirs across the land!
Changing environments cause bass to alter their behavior as well. Knowing how these changes impact your favorite reservoir’s bass locations and actions can definitely help improve your bass fishing success.
One of the best things about bass fishing in the fall..
It’s another time of year when all bass have the “feed bag” on as they prepare for the winter slowdown. A great time to catch not only lots of bass but a true wall-hanger too!
When many people think of fishing, they envision siting my the water’s edge on a lazy afternoon with an angler snoozing in the shade while worm floating under a bobber does all the work.
On the other hand, if you are a bass fisherman, you know there is a little more to it than just the lazy angler image …
Matter of fact, it’s amazing how many little details about fishing rigs, lures and even hook setting techniques there are to learn and master!
Many of us fish waters where aquatic vegetation provides the most prominent cover for bass in the lake. Learning the fundamentals of fishing vegetation in bass lakes across the nation is often the key to success.
One of the key elements of fishing any type of bass cover is learning the relationship between the cover itself (in this case vegetation) any structure related to it.
KVD from the Bass Pro Shops team provide great insight in how to fish for bass using vegetation for cover under a variety of environmental conditions:
So the next time you head to your favorite vegetated bass lake, remember the tips provided by KVD and as always … tight lines and full livewells.
Whether fishing the Great Lakes or the sprawling impoundments of the Dakotas, glacial pools in the quiet countryside or the mountain gems of Tennessee, these easy tips will help you catch more smallmouth… period.
Fish where they are. This may seem like an overly simplified approach to picking a spot, but the fact is, many people overlook it. If you are fishing one of the storied lakes of Tennessee, you stand a reasonable chance to boat a six-pounder, but you will not likely catch more than a handful of fish. In direct contrast, you may catch a hundred or more in a mountain stream in Northern Arkansas, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find one over four pounds. Certain locales, like the upper Mississippi River and Lake Erie, offer excellent numbers and a good chance at big fish. Be sure to check with the state wildlife agency and look at creel reports to determine the expectations you should have for a certain body of water.
Give them what they want. Again, this is not a difficult concept but it is one that many anglers refuse to grasp. I like to fish with spinnerbaits, but once smallmouth move up on the beds, they much prefer to eat a tube or crawfish colored Fuzz-E-Grub in my home waters. Likewise, in the late summer when I’ve been catching them on jigs for two months, they begin to feed heavily on shad and I need to switch to crankbaits to turn their motors on. Pay attention to what techniques are working and don’t be afraid to try several different things to see what is best. Also, watch closely to see if a fish spits anything up when it comes to the surface – this can be the clue you need to really hone in on the hot pattern.
Mind the depth. A good smallmouth angler will know the exact depth at which fish are holding. Early morning and late evening often find smallmouth shallow while they hold in somewhat deeper water in the heat of the day. Locating and keeping track of the depth of actively feeding bass can also be indications of whether the fish shown on the sonar are smallmouth or something else.
Follow the lines. A good topographical map loaded onto your GPS can be your best friend when targeting smallmouth bass – especially on large reservoirs. Summertime bass will stack up at the bottom of rock piles and off of main lake points during the day and move on top during active feeding periods. Even on cloudy, cool days when fish feed all day, they will almost always be near to deep water where they can escape if necessary. Look for areas with steep drops or stair-stepped ledges where fish will hold. With a little practice, you can pick out likely spots before you ever leave the boat ramp and maximize your time on the water.
Pay attention to structure. Okay, so you’ve got the fish figured out. They are holding on the leeward side of main lake points where the depth changes from 15- to 24-feet…sometimes. Why are the fish on some of these spots but not all of them? The answer could be because the structure is different. On a given day or moon phase, fish will relate most closely to a particular type of structure. Generally, rocks are a good bet for mid-summer smallmouth, but they may key on sand, grass or even mud flats. Pay attention.
Time it just right. Much of the fishing for brown bass this time of year involves jigs or tubes and a big factor in the effectiveness of either is fall rate. Active fish will often inhale a lure before it reaches the bottom, but how they view that lure determines whether they will hit it or just watch it fall. A lighter weight lets your bait spend more time in the strike zone, but a heavier presentation often triggers a reaction bite as the jig zooms past a smallmouth’s line of sight. Try several different jighead weights before settling on one to determine which the fish prefer. Generally this will change throughout the day.
Color up. It is much too deep of a topic to get into here, but color matters. In general, use bright colors on bright days and dark colors on overcast days; use metallics in clear water and neons in stained water; pearl to white is good pretty much anytime. Sometimes glow colors pay big dividends. The bottom line is EXPERIMENT. The fish will tell you pretty quickly which colors they like best – especially if there are several people in the boat fishing different options. It is a good idea to fish three color combinations if possible to provide maximum contrast. For example, a Sapphire Shad Fuzz-E-Grub with a black Max Gap jig gives you blue, white and black – a deadly combination. For even more variability, try the X-Change Jig System and fine tune on the go.
Put your money on the line. There is nothing more frustrating than having everything right and losing the big one before you get it in the boat. One of the biggest problems contributing to smallmouth getting off the line is, fittingly, the line itself. Monofilament with too much stretch prevents anglers from setting the hook firmly when a smallmouth grabs a jig. Quality fluorocarbons, such as that made by Silver Thread, are a good low-stretch alternative in clear water. In stained to dirty water, it is tough to beat a good superline for sensitivity and great hook-sets.
Next time you hit the water in pursuit of smallmouth bass, follow these simple guidelines and catch more fish. Guaranteed.
Bare banks exist in virtually all reservoirs and lakes in the country. They are void stretches of clay, sand, mud or gravel or composites of these materials. Bare banks may border creek embankments, main river channels or islands. Some run for short distances; others stretch for hundreds of yards. Still, the thread that ties all bare banks together is their lack of obvious features. The degree to which bass use bare banks varies from lake to lake and even from one bank to the next.
Bare banks in deeper and/or older lakes tend to attract more fish than do similar banks in shallow, newer lakes. The latter waters usually have other, higher quality structure to draw the fish. Bare banks aren’t as important in lakes that have timber or grass or lots of up and down bottom structure. Even in lakes with plenty of other structure, some bare banks still hold bass, and these can be honey holes because they are rarely fished. The only way to learn which banks are good is to test fish them. This takes a lot of time, and this is why fishing bare banks is more practical for anglers on their home lakes than for pros, who move around from one lake to the next.
Bass are more prone to hold along bare banks during seasonal migrations. The best times to fish these banks are spring and fall. In spring, the bass move into the creeks to spawn, and a lot of times they follow banks back to shallow water. And in the fall, shad swim into the creeks, and bass come in behind them. Much of the feeding activity during September and October takes place close in to shore. Sometimes bass also feed along bare banks in summer and winter, usually in main lake areas where wind or currents push shad up shallow. Bare banks have the potential to produce fish all year long. Wind is one of the main keys. Fishing along a bare bank is 100 times better if there’s a wind blowing on it, especially on a clear lake. The waves ‘blow in’ baitfish. They stir up the bottom and expose crawfish. They break up sunlight penetration. Overall, wind blowing on a bare bank creates prime feeding conditions, and it causes the bass to be shallower and more active. One more note about bare banks: They hold an extra attraction to smallmouth and spotted bass. If a lake only have largemouths, plain banks will be good sometimes. But is spotted and smallmouth are present, they can be great virtually anytime.
All bass anglers are looking for secrets to help increase their bass catching. One secret many fishermen overlook pertains to a basic piece of bass fishing equipment the line on their reels!
Keep Your Line Fresh for More Bass …
Make no mistake, the weakest part of your connection to the bass is the line you are using. Many bass anglers spool their reels at the beginning of the season and continue to use the same line until they can’t cast anymore.
I know being frugal can be a good thing but when you are bass fishing around all sorts of cover, the line is constantly being abraded and degraded!
As we ease from spring and into summer, my approach to presentations takes on a timing pattern throughout the day based on the phrase…
Sun Low, Think Top, Sun High, Think Bottom
One thing to keep in mind…
Depth control matters relative to the time of the day…
Before I set out on an early morning trip to one of my favorite waters, I rig several rods with a variety of lures allowing me to adjust presentation depth as the Sun climbs higher in sky…
Starting at the pre-dawn launch until around 8 AM, the two rigs garnering the most action are the topwater and buzzbait rods since the Sun is still low on the horizon and bass are more active on top…
As the day ages and we approach the 9 AM hour, the topwater bite often slows and there’s a switch to mid-depth presentations.
Even with "Old Man Winter" threatening to apply his icy grip, there's time to break out the bass fishing gear and hit your favorite big bass haunts!
How can you catch some of the biggest bass of the year?
A great technique to help catch more of the hawgs migrating from to and from their winter-time, deep-water havens, is to slow roll a spinnerbait right across their nose...
Once the late fall to early spring Sun sends water temps toward the mid-forties, sluggish bass begin their ascension down and up the points and drop-offs to stage for their seasonal migrations.
Ask 10 bass fisherman how they feel about the use of trailers on spinnerbaits and you're likely to get almost as many answers.
After reading an article by Kevin VanDam recently discussing his approach to the use of spinnerbait trailers, I was surprised to find his views on using spinnerbait trailers were much like mine.
Generally speaking when fishing during the warmer periods of the year in either clear or slightly stained water neither KVD nor myself use trailers on spinnerbaits. When encountering conditions where the water is significantly colder (during the late fall, throughout the winter or early spring) or when the water is dirty we both agree it's time to break-out the plastic and add a trailer to our spinnerbaits.
Great short instructional video providing an honest plus some of my tips providing little different view of fishing the drops shot rig for largemouth and smallmouth bass.
The host (Skeet Reese) details information about the basics of the drop shot rig including hooks, sinkers, leader material and how to tie the rig.
Next Skeet covers the different types baits and conditions to use on a drop shot rig.
Although he covers the standard approach to fishing for bass with a drop-shot rig, there are two things you want to keep in mind:
Over the last few months, I have run across several posts on different bass fishing forums discussing a desire by many anglers to return to smaller boats and motors in tournaments.
When I think back to my early days of organized bass fishing, I can still visualize the line-up of boats on the shore ... mostly 17 feet in length or shorter and a 115-HP outboard would be the largest in the lot.
Even the boat provided by B.A.S.S. for the first Classic on Lake Mead, NV in 1971 was the Rebel Fastback and it was only powered by a 90-HP I/O motor. Times have changed, however, since most Classic boats this year were > 20 feet in length and powered by 250-HP outboards.
Are Big, Expensive Bass Boats Required for Bass Tournaments?
From my personal experience in both club and local money tournaments, the answer is definitely no!
Several of my friends and I all fish from relatively small boats (< 17 feet and outboards < 100-HP (well under in my case)) and still manage to hold our own at the tournaments we fish.
About a year ago, there was even one pro angler who spoke out about successfully fishing from smaller boats.
Keeping true to that message, Rick Clunn (still with more Bassmaster Classic wins (four) than anyone else) talked about fishing from an 18 foot Tracker aluminum boat during the 2009 Bassmaster Classic.
He explains his reasons in the video below ...
Considering the rising price of both bass fishing rigs and the fuel to power them, perhaps it's time to re-think the standard for bass boats and motors?
What do you think?
Is it time for "Retro-Bass" :)
Flash-forward to 2021 and it turns out a growing number of bass pros are trending back to aluminum boats though they still tend to be 20'+ with 200+ hp outboards. Still more fuel efficient I guess :D
The original Rapala “Floating Minnow” was one of the first lures introduced to the fishing world by Rapala in 1936. Shortly thereafter, the company added jointed and sinking (Countdown) versions of the popular bait.
Constructed of balsa wood, the floating minnow series comes in seven different sizes and 22 possible color choices. The three sizes I use in most bass fishing situations fall in the middle of the size range, namely the F07 (1/8 oz. & 2.75”), F09 (3/16 oz. & 3.5”) and F11 (3/16 oz. & 4.28”) mostly in silver, gold and perch color patterns.
Though the F11 can be fished with standard spinning or light casting gear, I typically fish either the F07 or F09 on a 6 to 6.5’ medium-light spinning rod with matching rod and 6 or 8 lb test monofilament line.
Bass & Fish Catching Magic
Rapala’s original floating minnow is one of the “go-to” baits in my tackle collection and it should be in yours too!
Why?
Simply because the floating minnow’s basic action on a straight retrieve mimics a wounded baitfish and the slow rise and quiver action imparted when using a stop and go retrieve can be deadly on bass. It also works as a great topwater lure for those early morning outings when the lake surface is like a sheet of glass!
Years ago I also discovered a “secret” presentation technique putting bass in the boat when other presentations failed. Though not complicated, one subtle change in a normal surface presentation seems to excite neutral fish and entice them to rise to the surface and slurp the minnow right off the surface!
Still surface water conditions are a must and they are even better if in the afternoon under a bright, sunny summer day.
Enter – The Quivering Dead-Stick Minnow
This presentation method starts with either the F07 (one I use most often) or F09 (if larger forage is present) tied to the line with either an Improved Clinch or Palomar knot rather than the Rapala knot used on normal cast and retrieve presentations. The reason for the solid contact between the bait, line and rod will become apparent shortly.
After casting the floating minnow to the structure I am fishing, I let the minnow remain perfectly still until all rings from the initial impact have dissipated.
Next I start gently shaking the rod tip with slack in the line since I am not trying to move the lure towards me just impart vibrations causing it to quiver on the surface for several seconds. When done correctly, the minnow appears to be shaking feverishly on the surface like a struggling baitfish and bass (plus other fish in the area) can’t resist taking advantage of this easy morsel.
The quivering dead-stick minnow presentation is absolutely deadly on those summer days when the afternoon wind quits and fish are selectively feeding on small insects and baitfish off the surface.
Tale a look at the following video from the folks at Rapala to see the floating minnow in action with a little more insight on fishing methods…
Today, the pressure from both tournament anglers and weekend bass fishermen can quickly add up and result in damaging consequences to the bass stocks in many water bodies.
With increasing emphasis on intelligent harvest and catch and release practices, the savvy bass angler is always on the look-out for tools and tips that help preserve this precious resource.
Conservation-minded bass anglers wishing to optimize the number of bass they catch and release alive, have found using circle-type hooks for techniques like the split shot a true gem.
So take a moment and watch the video to learn how this split shot technique (modified) catches more fish in the jaw, not in the gullet and helps conserve our bass populations …
You will be glad you did! …
We hope you enjoyed the video.
Watch for more tutorial videos from the Dave in future posts!
One of the most productive lures used for bass fishing in all seasons are tube lures.
They work great and they are so easy to use that even a beginner can use them successfully.
One of the best things about using tubes is the fact they are so versatile. If you love to fish off of docks and banks or go out in a boat it doesn’t matter.
Why you ask?
Basically because you can use these fantastic “bass catching lures” anywhere.
This type of lure works so great they are sometimes referred to as one of the prime “killer bass fishing lures”.
Once you learn the different ways tube lures can be fished, you will be rewarded with strings of largemouth, smallmouth and spotted bass your friend’s will envy!
Tube Bait Designs: Different Strokes for Different Folks
There are a large number of tube designs available and some of them are even combined with the shape of baitfish that the bass eat naturally such as the salamanders or crayfish.
Other tube lure options have been designed to be used specifically for fishing conditions calling for techniques such as flipping, pitching, Carolina rigging, and even finesse fishing situations.
Beyond the lures themselves, there have been numerous other types of accessory tackle items also created for use with tubes including specialized hooks, scent holders, jig heads and rattles.
Fishing the Tube Bait for Bass
The beauty of bass fishing tubes is doe to the fact they allow the angler to fish any depth of water ranging from the very shallow areas down to depths exceeding 20 feet.
Though I commonly fish tubes using yo-yo and swimming retrieves in deep water, I also love fishing tubes in the shallows. One of my favorite shallow water techniques for fishing tubes involves rigging the bait on a “Texas-rig” style jig-head then skipping the bait under over-hanging brush and branches along the bank.
This technique is great during the warmer periods of the day when the Sun is high in the sky and has produced both great numbers of bass as well as some true lunkers to boot!
Tubes are great for this approach because they don’t get hung up easily and the bass react aggressively since the bait just invaded their tangle infested lair.
One of the tricks, however, is earning how to cast directly into these areas accurately without hanging up so the bass gets surprised quickly. Making a successful cast will make a big difference in how or if the bass respond to your bait.
Rigging a Tube Bait
There are several ways to fish with a tube.
Rigging on a Jighead With Exposed Hook
The most basic method of fishing the tube is to insert a jighead (usually a tube or darter head) into the open end of the lure then sliding the head all the way to the front. Once the jig hits the head of the tube, push the jighead eyelet through the top of the tube bait then tie to your line.
It is best used in open water away from surface and subsurface obstacles.
A special note on using jigheads for this method …
You can also change the position of the jig in the tube (not all the way to the front to get a different type of action as the lure falls through the water column.
Rigging Weightless Tubes
Some anglers fish weightless, meaning they are used just as they are by using an extra wide-gap worm hook.
When rigging the tube simply place the hook through the nose of the tube then work it around as you would any plastic bait and either bury the point of the hook inside the hollow part or through the top of the tube.
This method is best used for fishing in weedy or grassy areas because it helps to prevent the hook from getting snagged and hung up on structures and the tube is unweighted.
Tube Lures & the Carolina Rig
Another rigging methods include the Carolina rig, Texas rig or adding it to a drop-shot rig.
The Carolina rig is a little more complicated method because the weight is placed on the main line about two feet below the tube, which is left weightless on the end of a leader.
The weight will land on the bottom of the water and the tube will be bouncing around a couple of feet from the bottom.
The weight will stir up the mud on the bottom while making a clicking sound as it hits which helps get the attention of the bass. After drawing the bass’ attention, the fish notices the tube floating behind the disturbance and be attracted to your bait.
Texas Rigging the Tube
Rigging a tube Texas style is very popular, relatively easy and great for fishing around deeper weeds and wooded areas.
Attach the bullet weight to the line followed by the hook and then thread the tube on on the hook in the same manner as you would using the other methods described above.
Simply pass the hook through the nose of the tube and then back into the hollow center of the tube and into the top of the tube.
This makes it good for fishing in weeds or other areas with underwater obstacles because the point is inside the tube where it won’t get hung up on the cover.
This method is perfect when using techniques like flipping and pitching.
Last But Not Least – Tubes on the Drop Shot
In the case of the drop-shot just replace the bait you normally use with a tube lure and you are all set to probe deeper structure!
Tube Tips from Wired2Fish
As an added bonus, here’s a video from the folks from Wired2Fish on rigging and fishing tubes:
With Spring (or any season really) rapidly (at least so they say ) approaching, remember to stock up on some tube lures and experiment with the techniques above to increase your bass catching success this season!
Many bass anglers shy away from using spinnerbaits when fishing clear water lakes and rivers. Part of the reason is that we are taught to use baits resembling natural forage. Just take a quick look in any spinnerbait and it is plain to see it has little resemblance to any bass forage.
Even when selecting baits with color patterns mimicking different types of bait, spinnerbaits may look similar in color but lack the size and shape of the actual forage.
Nonetheless spinnerbaits can be highly effective when finished in clear water systems under the right conditions.
Best Conditions to Use Spinnerbaits in Clear Water
Though you can use a spinnerbait any time in clear water, the best condition to use spinnerbaits is one light penetration is reduced.
The best times to find these conditions include:
* low-light to bright light transition periods in the mornings and evenings; * cloudy to partly cloudy days; * sunny days when a good breeze creates chop on the water; and * anytime from dust to dawn.
Using a spinnerbait in a color pattern mimicking natural forage when these conditions exist can lead to great days of fish catching not just casting and reeling.
Color Patterns That Work
As mentioned above it is often best to use spinnerbaits in color schemes resembling the major types of bass forage present in the clear water lake or river you’re fishing. Typically these color schemes mimic baitfish such as shad, herring, alewives, shiners, chubs, bluegills or perch.
Some of the more familiar color schemes include:
* light baitfish patterns with nickel blades (different variations mimicking shad, alewives, shiners) ; * golden shiner pattern with gold blades; * yellow perch pattern with brass or gold blades; * green and white pattern with brass blades (mimics many chubs) ; * peanut butter and jelly pattern with gold blades (mimics bluegills); * crawdad pattern with copper blades; * white pattern with white blades; * bright chartreuse pattern with chartreuse blades (deadly on northern smallmouths); and * black spinnerbait with black blade for night fishing.
The color schemes selected obviously depends on the types of baitfish present in the waters you fish. The forage base varies according to the area in which you live. In the northeastern US, common baitfish include alewives, golden shiners and yellow perch; chubs. On the other hand, perch and shiners are common in the upper Midwest where shad, herring, shiners and bluegills are often more prevalent down South.
It is always best to check with your local fisheries agency and determine the prevalent forage base in your local lakes and rivers to make sure you select the best color patterns. Remember to verify the types of shad, shiners and chubs present since many spinnerbait manufacturers produce color schemes resembling specific baitfish.
The best retrieves for clear water environs depend on the season or time of day being fished. During the daylight period of the warmer months (late spring through early fall) faster retrieves (waking, bump the cover and stop/go) tend to work best. Use slow rolling and dead dragging retrieves during the cooler months as well as at night during the summer for increased success during those times.
Here’s a little more insight from pro bass angler Marty Stone on fishing spinnerbaits in clear water especially in the fall…
Now you are ready to visit your preferred tackle dealer; stock up with the right color schemes for your local clear water lakes and catch more quality bass than ever before.
Many new bass anglers are constantly on the look-out for different bass fishing lures and methods for rigging them. One of the apparently simplest bass lures to use can often be a tad more difficult for many fisherman who are just starting to try them out … these baits are basic plastic worms.
Almost from the first time we hear of plastic worms, it conjures up images of the first “live bait” many of us fished with … the ever-present earthworm!
So it’s easy to see why many new plastic worm fishermen think it should be a snap to use the artificial version right … just push the hook tip through the worm, cast it out and you are ready to go …
Though many plastic worm rigs can be a little more complicated there is at least one plastic worm rigging method that is straight forward … the wacky worm rig.
The best part, fishing the wacky worm rig for bass is also pretty straight forward.
Here is a short instructional video from Shaw Grigsby and the folks at Strike King providing the ins and outs of rigging and fishing the wacky worm rig using soft stick baits for bass fishing …
Next time you head out to your local bass lake, take a few wide gap hooks, 5 to 7 inch plastic worms and have a blast fishing the wacky worm rig!
Have you ever had one of those days when the fishing is super slow and bass are barely cooperating then poof …
Something weird happens and a bass strikes when they shouldn’t?
I know I have like one time when burning a jig n pig from the edge of a lay-down and a nice 3 pound+ largemouth comes up and hammers it.
OK, so you say anything can happen once, but when it happened two more times within the next few minutes I decided the bass were really trying to say something to me.
After working a bank with several lay-downs for most of the morning but only catching an occasional keeper bass, this sudden change of action caused me to stop and re-think my game plan.
How did I react?
By stowing the pitching stick and picking up one of my spinnerbait rods, I started re-working each of the trees with the spinnerbait using a waking retrieve.
An hour later, I had caught and released seven additional bass ranging from two to four pounds. Even better…
Many of the bass were busting the bait on the surface with far more impressive strikes then I ever got pitching jigs.
Now that is really cool!
Not only did the change result in catching several nice bass but with much more explosive strikes!
A few weeks later, I was fishing another pond absolutely loaded with aquatic vegetation (pond weed, lily pads, coontail). My partner and I started the day working both the deep and shallow weed-lines with Texas-rigged worms.
Even though this pond tends to deliver great numbers of bass, this was definitely another one of the slower days where the “bass fishing” was definitely better than the “bass catching”.
The wind was blowing better than 15 mph from the south, so we continued working in and out of the various coves to conserve battery power. As we came down along a weed-line at the southern end of one cove and rounded the corner into the wind, I turned and made a cast into directly into an even bigger wind gust.
You probably guessed what happened then …
I was instantly rewarded with a pretty nasty backlash on my bait-casting rig. After picking at the mess (and muttering) for a few minutes, I finally got the backlash out and started retrieving the line. Just as the line started to draw taunt, I noticed it was moving sideways and quickly set the hook into a nice fish.
Once the bass was landed and released, I sent another cast in the direction of the wind and poof … another backlash. (You would think … “Once bitten; twice shy” right!)
Again I picked at the snarl (while muttering even louder this time with a few choice words thrown in) and retrieved the line once the bird’s nest was cleared. This time when when the line tightened I found another bass had picked up the worm running out towards and under the boat.
Looking at my fishing partner we decided the bass were telling us to make two changes by the way those two fish had reacted to the worm sitting dead on the bottom.
One … Put away our bait-casters and pick-up spinning outfits and then to change the retrieve from a slow, bottom-bouncing presentation dead-stick the worms.
For the rest of the day, our newly informed efforts were rewarded with bass catching rather than just the bass fishing we experienced that morning.
See it does pay to stop and listen when the bass are talking (as long as you understand what they’re saying that is )!
Ever Feel Like You’re Missing That Special Fishing Knot?
How many times have you been out on a bass fishing trip facing a specific situation where a certain knot is required but couldn’t remember how to tie it?
I’m sure it has happened to each of us at some point and what happens?
We end up either running around asking everyone else how to tie the knot or improvise using a knot that is less than an ideal solution.
Even if you’ve been lucky enough to get your hands on a credit card size knot guide for your wallet, sometimes the little diagrams just don’t cut it!
Obviously the best way to avoid this situation is to re-learn how to tie the knot and keep practicing to commit it to memory.
Fortunately, today’s Internet provides numerous resources enabling us to access a variety of websites and other resources (videos, downloadable e-books, etc.) to help solve almost any problem. This is definitely the case for our fishing knot problem and I would like to introduce you to a few of the resources I found particularly useful …
I was amazed to not only find numerous websites providing diagrams and written instructions but also websites with downloadable PDF files (e-books) and even videos.
The best part … I found all my favorite bass fishing knots on a cool website including the Albright, Improved Clinch, Palomar, Blood and Rapala knots.
Plus they were all in animated video … How cool is that!!!!
Get Your Bass Fishing Knot Guidance Here!
Here is a video tour I created to guiding you through the website, different bass fishing knots (and why I use them) and how the site works …
As mentioned in the video, the link to the animated video site can be accessed directly by clicking below:
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